![]() Everything is made from Western Red Cedar. Next, Bob visits Fred Goode's Brattle Works workshop to see how the fencing is manufactured. The trellis panel (with full half-dados) is used for a topper, giving the fencing its sturdiness. Sometimes an accelerant is added to speed hardening. Then ready-mix concrete is poured into the hole and the compound is mixed in place. ![]() The hole is filled about halfway with water. A steel pipe goes into the ground and the red cedar extends above ground.įred has dug an approximately two-foot deep hole. The second installation option- the one used in this project- combines the best of both worlds. All cedars have tannin in them, and tannin is a natural inhibitor of mold and bacteria. This method should offer a 15-year life expectancy in well-drained soil. In one, a wooden post is actually put right into the ground. The cedar can be stained, or allowed to weather naturally, in which case it should gray out in six to nine months. The strips are fastened with a stainless steel fastener and waterproof glue. The strips of Western Red Cedar are laid one on top of another. The bottom part of the fencing is privacy lattice with a one-inch vertical member and a one-inch opening. Blueboard Explained Part 2: Trellis and Lattice Fencing & Workshop Tour Fred Goode (from Brattle Works) joins Bob in the backyard to look at the trellis and lattice fencing that will provide screening and the backdrop for a shrub border. Hmmm.I like the framing idea.I might give it a shot.what is the life expectancy on the wood.hopefully I'll just need about 5 years.Ĭopyright © 2020 Washington Football Team. Attached is a small pic, not sure if you can see it or not. A much cleaner look and professional appearance imho. It covered up the seems where the lattice is joined, and gave it kind of a shadow-box effect. I used decking boards to "frame" my lattice work in. ![]() Use a chalk-line to mark your cuts, and do it when the weather is warm, as vinyl shrinks and expands greatly with the temp, and can crack if the weather is too cold (while you're handling it) Adjust the depth of the saw blade to just slightly deeper than the material you are cutting. cord the entire time, which can easily get hung up in the lattice and mess up your cut. Use a cordless circ saw with a fine-tooth blade to cut it. Vinyl will last longer and be much easier to work with. White and woodgrain iirc is what Lowes carries. Although the only drawback is they might not make it in the color you need. I would suggest (strongly) using a vinyl lattice. I'll probably tackle this particular project myself, but who knows what the future will bring. Sure, PM that number to me when you get a chance. I've used him on several projects, including that deck, and he's been a pleasure to have working for me. It's hard to find a guy you can trust and knows what he's doing, but if you or anyone are interested, I'd be glad to PM you his number. I may do it yet.īy the by, if you're in southern MD I know a terrific carpenter. But now that you mention it, it's not a half bad idea. I notched the ground a bit so it would lay in level, and that also gives some more support with the small bit of earth that covers the bottom.Ĭosmetically, some corner molds on the post shown in photo 2 would look nice, but aren't necessary, and I didn't put them on. On the rest of it, I just nailed directly to the posts and brought it all the way to the ground. It's a wide door, and it's on a slight grade, so I also put a small wheel on the bottom with a spring on it so the wheel supports the door and glides up the grade when i open it. Now that you are finished what is your opinion on molding.is it needed for support or mainly just cosmetic?.Thats the part that has me a little confused (deciding when and where to use molding).įor the gate the molding is essential, the lattice is too flimsy without it to swing properly. Thanks for the response man.It looks like you have molding on the gate, but not on the rest of the lattice that surrounds the deck. I'm going to put rose bushes under the overhang. Keeps my lawn mower, gasoline, and a few other things nice and safe and hidden.Ĭutting it is the hard part, holding it steady is a pain, the skilsaw liked hanging up in the notches, so go slow. A couple hinges, some 2x2 to brace the door, a latch and a wheel and it works like a charm. (This photo needs to be rotated 90 degrees counter-clockwise to show right.)Īnd in this angle you can see how I made one side into a shed. This angle shows some of the joints to give you an idea of how is is fastened. I just did mine, and instead of taking it flush to the edge of the deck, I nailed it to the support posts, giving my deck a bit of an overhang.
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